NCERT Class 11 Home Science Textile Traditions in India

E. TEXTILE  TRADITIONS  IN INDIA

LEARNING OBJECTIVES

After completing this section the learner is able to—

• recognise the diversity of textile products produced in India since millennia.

• identify the areas associated with production of cotton, silk and wool fabrics.

• describe the concept of dyeing and its occurrence on textiles.

• explain the characteristic features of embroideries of different parts of the country.

•discuss the significance of prevailing traditions of textile production in the socio-cultural and economic setup of our lives.

10E.1 INTRODUCTION

In the earlier chapter ‘Fabrics Around Us’ you became aware of the diversity of the textile products and their usage. Have you ever wondered how these came to exist, and how in India they are considered an important heritage? If you ever visited a museum, you must have noticed a section where fabrics and apparel are displayed. You may have realised that not only there are fewer exhibits in this section, they are also not as old as other objects. This is because fabrics decay much more quickly than bone, stone or metal. However, archaeological records depicting clothed human figures on wall and sculptures indicate that humans knew the art of making cloth even 20,000 years ago. We also learn about them from references in ancient literature and paintings on walls in caves and buildings.

 Textile materials have fascinated humans since ancient times and have been an essential part of civilisation. People of all ancient civilisations developed techniques/technologies for utilising the raw material available in their region. They also created their own distinctive designs and produced elaborately designed products.

10E.2 Historical Perspective in India

The manufacture of sophisticated textiles in India is as ancient as the Indian civilisation. Fabric has been used as a symbol while describing the creation of the universe in the Rig Veda and the Upanishads. The universe, in these texts, is described as ‘a fabric woven by the Gods’. The appearance of Day and Night, as they bring light and darkness over the earth, are compared to the movement of the shuttle in the loom by the weaver.

Weaving is one of the oldest arts and fine fabric products have been made from very early times. Cloth fragments, as well as terracotta spindles and bronze needles, that have been found at the excavation site at Mohenjo-Daro, are evidence that the traditions of cotton spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery in India are at least 5000 years old. India was first among the ancient civilisations to discover colour and perfect the technique of application on textile materials, especially on cotton. Dyed and printed cotton fabrics were exported to other nations and they were known for their colourfastness properties. Classical (Greek and Latin) literature has reference to them, e.g. “colour on Indian fabrics is as lasting as wisdom”.

Throughout the period of recorded history there are references extolling the excellence of Indian fabrics made from cotton, silk and wool. They were known for their fabric characteristics as also for designs produced on them through weaving, resist dyeing, printing and embroidery. They soon became coveted items of trade, helped in political linkages and influenced the establishment of such industries in other countries. From around 15th century onwards India was the greatest exporter of textiles ever known. The setting up of the various East India Companies by the European nations was associated with textile trade from India.

10E.3 The Three Main Fibres

Traditionally Indian fabric production is associated with three main natural fibres, which are cotton, silk and wool. Let us now discuss their significance.

Cotton

India is the home of cotton. Cotton cultivation and its use in weaving are known since prehistoric times. The spinning and weaving techniques

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